Stylists champion diversity and inclusion on the runway

Mutabazi, who is styling Thursday’s free Emporium runway show in Little Bourke Street, has worked with inclusive Melbourne designer Erik Yvon on shows at Australian Fashion Week in Sydney, but prefers her hometown’s support network.

“The Melbourne fashion community in terms of stylists, models, hair and makeup artists are diverse and really inclusive,” Mutabazi says.

Inclusivity is intrinsic to the work of independent designers such as Yvon, who will take part in the closing night group show on Sunday alongside the Brotherhood of St Laurence charity and creative couturier Jarrod Reid. Accepting approaches to size, gender and racial diversity are more difficult to find at commercial labels, says Mutabazi: “It’s like pulling teeth.”

“Fashion Week organisers are clear about their expectations surrounding inclusivity,” she says. “You still have brands where they will only offer you one dress in a size 12 or can’t provide a size 16. This stops me from using some incredible models. I wish I could use more models in sizes the audience relates to.”

Rowland’s priority is focusing on the experience of models of colour. In 2023, 13 black models boycotted Melbourne Fashion Week claiming that black models were being paid significantly less than white models, the N-word had been used by a photographer, and hairdressers spoke in derogative terms about African hair.

Loading

For the ganbu marra show, Rowland will exclusively use models of colour.

“Most black people, we don’t like our hair being touched,” Rowland says. “I’m always telling hair teams that we all have different types of hair textures. Let’s respect the boundaries of our black models.”

For Rowland, the experiences of black models need to be considered on every runway. It’s a necessity, not a trend.

“There are moments where people are all about black culture and what black people do, but then there are moments where it’s just a trend.

“That’s why it’s important for me to be using all people of colour. It’s sharing First Nations designs and First Nations storytelling with other black people in our community.

“At one point we weren’t invited into these spaces.”

The recent success of First Nations models Tatyana Perry and Latahlia Hickling on the Chanel runway at Paris Fashion Week highlights a shift in fashion’s needle.

Mutabazi is also focused on meaningful casting at MFW.

“I’m of African background, so it’s important to have people authentically included, rather than being included in a tokenistic manner,” she says.

Overcoming these obstacles is just another job for stylists. The measure of success is different for the Melbourne City Council, organisers of MFW, the participating designers and the models.

For Mutabazi, the morning after should be about smiles rather than spreadsheets.

“It’s like a family when you’re doing a show. You want people to have a good time because fashion is supposed to be fun. Shows are not always fun, and it’s a pressure situation.

“If people have felt safe, supported, but pushed to be their best, it’s worth it. As long as everybody had a great time and the people who watched it enjoyed the show, that’s a success to me.”

Melbourne Fashion Week runs until October 26.

Make the most of your health, relationships, fitness and nutrition with our Live Well newsletter. Get it in your inbox every Monday.