Why I Started Using M1 Finance | Dividend Investing

I’m going to break down my M1 finance portfolio, why I started using them more, and also my entire strategy. ????M1 Finance Portfolio???? https://m1.finance/4BZo2Na7uq_N

1. Now let’s start this video with what I like about M1 Finance
– Then what I don’t like
– And then the entire portfolio that I can share with you guys, so you can copy instantly

Freedom to Create a Portfolio with whatever you want: if you want to create a pie, with amazon 33%, apple 33%, google 33%, all the big tech companies you can. And they start investing auto with just $25 bucks.

Dynamic rebalancing: your first deposit will be allocated as your target is set, but as you keep depositing more money, it’ll make trades to bring your portfolio back to the proper allocation you set for it. ( this is very important, means that you don’t have to sell when rebalancing) – this is all done with automatically.
– This is because over time some investments will earn more in your portfolio, but you want to retain your allocation, for risk tolerance.

Fractional Shares: Imagine if I tried to invest into this buy with the type of allocation I want, it would cost a lot of money, but this way it’s a lot more easy and simple.

2. What I don’t like
M1 Finance Plus:
Gives you an extra Trading window at 3pm: but its not really important since your most likely buying for the long term. And If you were worried about buying at a certain price you would be using Robinhood.

Borrow at 2%: up to 35% of your portfolio once you hit $10k, this is pretty cool and definitely worth the money if you’ll use it, but for me, I don’t plan to use leverage with my investments so it doesn’t make sense. ( remember just because a company has features that are cool, but you don’t use, doesn’t mean you have to sign up). – 35% of your value

Earn 1% APY: it’s cool, however, it’s not that great, plus 1% when you spend. You’re better off with high yield savings, and a credit card.

Total Cost is $125: and it’s not worth it. I stick with sofi money for checking, Citi double Cashback card, Varo Money for savings.

3. Portfolio
– 7 holdings breakdown
– Potential growth over 20-25 and 45 years.

Vanguard S&P 500 ETF: 38%
– Top 500 largest companies in the US
– 1.83% dividend yield
– And an expense ratio of .03% ( barely nothing fees)

Vanguard Developed Markets ETF: 16%
– These are companies outside of the US, but because it can be a little riskier, you’ll be investing into around 3,899 companies
– 2.13% dividend yield
– And expense ratio .05%

Vanguard Small-Cap ETF: 14%
– Now small companies grow a lot faster than large-cap companies, basically means the size of the company. And that’s why you’ll be investing 1,348 holdings
– 1.46% dividend yield
– And expense ratio .05%

iShares 1-3 Year Treasury Bond ETF: 10%
– These are treasury bonds basically government bonds and they dividends monthly
– Dividend yield of 1.63%
– An expense ratio of .15

I share Corporate bonds 10%
– These are riskier than government bonds, and that’s we have around 2,220 holdings and also 80% goes into Us base bonds and 14% into non us, and 3.4% into convertible. ( covert from bonds to common stock)
– Dividend Yield of 2.95%
– An expense ratio of .14%

Vanguard REIT Index Fund 8%
– this investment is based on real estate, and it has around 185 holdings.
– Pays a high dividend of 3.98%
– An expense ratio of .12%

Vanguard Emerging Market 4%
– These are non us investments that are located in based around emerging markets, which volatile
– Dividend Yield of 2.64%
– An expense ratio of .1%

This total of 100%

00:00 Intro
00:59 M1 Finance Pros
04:56 M1 Finance Cons
11:58 My Portfolio

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*Some of the links and other products that appear on this video are from companies in which Tommy Bryson will earn an affiliate commission or referral bonus. Tommy Bryson is part of an affiliate network and receives compensation for sending traffic to partner sites. The content in this video is accurate as of the posting date. Some of the offers mentioned may no longer be available. I’m an Accountant but I’m not your Accountant, always review information with your Accountant/CPA and your Financial Advisor.

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